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Green and (almost) mean on the nose with aromas of wet grass, elderflower and a chalky notion. Almond kernel and grapefruit pith account for a subtly bitter piquancy, minerality takes on a slightly earthy expression. A steely acidity and almost total absence of residual sugar make this a Grosses Gewächs for the trocken purist, but it may be a step too far for the rest of mankind. Fruit lovers may find solace in some subtle nuances of zesty orange and grapefruit, although they really only have a minor walk-on part. Taut and austere, this certainly is not a wine for drinking on its own. Klaus Peter Keller always says that Riesling doesn’t need make-up and the Abt’s E certainly doesn’t have any! (MS) Michael Schmidt